布拉格之春 PRAHA’S SPRING
“when standing in the fantasies of the past…”
1
Beyond the Scenery
As we traveled by train from Krakow to Prague, departing from the easternmost point of Poland bordering Ukraine, I encountered friendly Ukrainian soldiers on the train, clad in uniforms and burdened with numerous luggage. It reminded me of a line from a Korean drama, “Protecting women, elderly, and children is my principle.” The enormity of political stances fades in the presence of individuals, evoking both admiration and sorrow.
As dawn broke, I finally got a clear look at the lady seated next to me. Despite our language barrier—trying both English and Polish—it wasn’t until she shared candies with us, wrapped in the colors of the Ukrainian flag, that we connected. She showed us the photos on her phone, presumably is her daughter, her smile radiating happiness, perhaps anticipating a reunion. It was hard for me to imagine her existence in a war-torn country.
My understanding of the Russo-Ukrainian conflict was akin to stories in history books, feeling somewhat distant. However, meeting these individuals associated with war made its brutality palpable. Countless happiness sacrificed in war—does prioritizing national interests truly hold validity, or should peace and happiness prevail?
On the train platform stood a set of sculptures depicting children forcibly separated from their families. Yet, nearby, there were vibrant scenes of passionate lovers embracing, and reunited families…
2 Immersed in the Experience
The scenery of Czechia leaves nothing to be desired, with Gothic architecture adorning the landscape, houses adorned with various colors and patterns, and humorous sculptures dotting the streets. The sunset reflecting off the red roofs cast a golden hue, while the Charles Bridge weaves together different narratives, connecting the city’s two ends.
During my three days in Prague, I indulged in numerous cups of coffee. Among them, Café Slavia stood out, recommended by a Turkish friend who spoke of a Turkish poet who, due to political reasons, found solace here and penned many verses. The poet, Şükrü Erbaş, seemed to lack recognition in China, perhaps due to my limited knowledge.
At this café, I ordered a Café de Absinthe, an espresso paired with absinthe and milk. Adorned with a star anise, it was also my first experience with coffee and alcohol combined, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The creamy foam carried the fragrance of absinthe, while the bottom espresso had a subtly sweet flavor akin to chocolate liqueur.
I also took respite in several corner cafés, experimenting with Americanos, espressos, and cappuccinos, often accompanied by a slice of cake. Watching the hustle and bustle outside from the comfort of a café was the most relaxing moment of my travels.
Apart from coffee, I also savored a homemade raspberry juice atop a hill in Prague. Most European coffees are served in hot, so indulging in an ice juice while basking under the sunlight after a day of climbing was truly blissful.
The cuisine across Eastern European countries doesn’t vary significantly. The same dish found in a Polish traditional restaurant appears in a Czech one as well. However, with an attitude of giving Eastern European cuisine one more chance, we visited a traditional Prague restaurant recommended by local friends. Surprisingly, it was also listed on Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book). On the first night, I tried their soup, reminiscent of soy sauce beef broth—tender beef, though somewhat lacking in flavor beyond saltiness. However, the taste of the dark beer was exceptional. Unfiltered and abundant in hops, as a novice to alcohol, I nearly finished the 300-milliliter glass. The next day, we returned with empty stomachs and I ordered some ribs, reminiscent of the sweet and sour flavors found in Chinese cuisine. The meat was tender and fell off the bone with a mere touch, and the portion was generous.
The streets of Prague’s Old Town are filled with chimney cakes, a sweet treat originating from Hungary, On my last day in Prague, I finally indulged in one, opting for the luxurious pistachio flavor. The inside of the bread ring was filled with rich ice cream, while the outer layer was delightfully crunchy. Definitely worth a try.
3 What is Besides
Besides indulging in food and drink, exploring attractions is a must. Prague blends natural beauty with cultural classics exceptionally well, with most attractions concentrated on both sides of the Charles Bridge. Upon asking local students in Prague, we were recommended a place called Vítkov, a small hill offering a fantastic view of Prague. There, we could observe locals walking their dogs, exercising, and basking in the sunlight. The museum at the top of the hill was free to enter, which meant access to free restrooms (a rare find!), and I spent a relaxing two hours enjoying the raspberry soda on the observation deck outside.
Many Chinese people know about Prague because of Jay Chou’s song, but Prague doesn’t actually have a square, nor does it have a wishing pool. The Old Town is adorned with numerous churches. My Italian companion was a church enthusiast, and I joined him in visiting many churches. The murals inside the churches were breathtaking, with the organ music echoing and the exquisite color combinations and intricate wall decorations leaving us in awe. Each time I visited a church, I regretted not knowing more about Christian religious knowledge.
Apart from the Charles Bridge, Prague’s most famous landmark is probably the Clementinum, a historic complex of libraries. I passed by it several times while strolling through the Old Town but, for various reasons, never went inside to explore.Pity left for next time 🙂
Prague is steeped in cultural heritage, with art filling the city, even in random encounters at small shops. Beyond the tourist-packed Old Town, street graffiti, murals, and slogans are still visible everywhere. I stumbled upon an elderly lady sketching against a wall, next to a red convertible flower cart. People express their emotions through various art forms, and one memorable encounter was at the Kafka Museum entrance, where there were two urinating men sculptures. Initially amusing, I later learned from the tour guide that the “pool” beneath the installation actually represented the shape of Czech Republic on the map, with the two urinating men symbolizing two politicians.
What made this trip particularly interesting was when we opted for a free guided tour with a legendary theme. Despite the rain steadily increasing, the guide, holding up an umbrella, narrated stories for an hour and a half. As the rain intensified, my attention gradually waned, and I ‘m sorry that I can only caught about 70% of his tales…
4 Random Scribbles
A Prague classmate told me that North Korea is now using Czech trams, supposedly because of the superior quality of Czech trams.
The iron framework next to the Charles Bridge is filled with love locks. The guide said the origin of these locks is from an Italian novel, which surprised the Italians when they heard about it, and I asked why. He said because the author of the book is still alive. So, that’s legendary, haha!
The elevators in Prague’s subway are surprisingly fast, especially at the station where my hostel was located. You need to time it right to jump on the elevator and grab the handrail.
There are many eggs inside the Charles Bridge, and experts have indeed found egg components within the Charles Bridge.
Prague is said to have the highest number of people engaged in the adult entertainment industry.
I originally wanted to experience the strip clubs and feel some huge muscles, but my companions weren’t interested in for their sexual orientation, so I had to leave with some other regret. lol
When there was nothing to talk about during the trip, we would teach each other’s languages. I picked up a Turkish book from my friend and try to read it, and I learned “oh my god” from the Italians. I also taught them “help me” and “I love beer” in Chinese…
To be continued…
< 第一章 > 风光之外
我们坐火车从克拉科夫到布拉格,火车从波兰的最东边出发,那里和乌克兰接壤,在列车上我碰到充满善意的乌克兰士兵,他们穿军服,带着很多很多行李,恍惚间想起来韩剧里的那句台词“保护女性,老人和小孩是我的原则”。 一切政治立场在个体前都太过宏大了,敬佩又心酸。
早晨天微亮时,我终于看清同排座位阿姨的样子,我们语言不通,英语和波兰语都试了,直到看到她给我们分享的糖果—糖果包装是乌克兰国旗的颜色。她还给我们展示她手机上的照片,猜来是她女儿,她笑得很幸福,应该是要和女儿见面了。吃着糖,很难想象她身处战争国家。
之前对俄乌战争的了解就像对历史书里的故事的了解一样,感觉有些遥远,但直到碰见这些和战争相关的人,才如此真切的感受到战争的残酷。无数幸福在战争中牺牲,国家利益至上真的是对的吗,还是和平幸福至上吧!
火车月台上有组雕塑,看了介绍,展现的是关于被迫与家人分离的孩子的形象。转眼到,在雕塑旁边,是鲜活热烈的,拥吻的情侣,团聚的亲人…



< 第二章 > 身处其中
布拉格的风光实在是没得挑剔,随处可见的哥特式建筑,各种颜色与花纹的房屋,幽默诙谐的雕塑群。当成片红色的屋顶在夕阳下反射金色的光,查理大桥正连接着城市两端,交织不同的故事。
在布拉格的三天,我喝了很多咖啡,其中比较有特色的一家叫Café Slavia,这家是土耳其朋友要去的,说一位土耳其诗人因为政治原因,背井离乡,在这家咖啡厅写了很多诗。诗人叫希克梅特,好像中国的知名度不是很高,也可能是我知之甚少。
我在这家咖啡点了一杯 Café de Absinthe, 是espresso与苦艾酒和牛奶的搭配。奶泡上摆了一朵八角作为装饰。这也是我第一次尝试咖啡与酒精的搭配,很喜欢。奶泡很绵密,带着酒香,底部的浓缩咖啡也有着酒心巧克力的微甜,很奇特。
当然,我也休憩于其他几家街角咖啡店,美式,浓缩和卡布奇诺变着花样点,再配上一块小蛋糕。在咖啡店着看外面来来往往的人对我来说是旅游中最放松的时刻。
除去咖啡,碰巧在布拉格的一座山顶喝了一杯homemade的树莓果汁,欧洲的咖啡大多是热饮,在阳光日爬山后,点一杯冰果汁俯瞰城市全景实在幸福。
东欧几国的食物其实差别不大,同一道菜,到了波兰出现在波兰传统餐厅中,到了捷克又出现在捷克传统餐厅中,但是秉承再给东欧食物一次机会的态度,我们还是去了家布拉格传统餐厅。这个餐厅是布拉格的朋友推荐的,没想到在小红书上也搜得到名字,第一天晚上尝了份汤,酱油牛肉卤汤的感觉,牛肉挺嫩,但除了咸味好像没啥别的味道了。黑啤的味道倒是很不错,这款黑啤是没有过滤的啤酒,啤酒花特别多,作为一个酒精新手,300毫升基本上都喝完了。第二天我们又去吃这家店,这回带着空肚子来,我点了份肋排,味道有点国内糖醋的感觉,好吃在肉嫩而软烂,一捏就脱骨,分量也很足。
捷克老城的大街上遍布烟囱面包,这是种来自匈牙利的一种甜食,叫 “Chimney Cake” ,在布拉格的最后一日,终于买了份,还选了个奢华的开心果味。面包圈里的冰淇淋很浓郁,外面的面包圈是很crunchy的,值得一试。



< 第三章 > 吃喝之余
吃喝之余当然就是逛景点,布拉格把自然风光与人文经典结合的非常好,大多景点集中在查理大桥两岸,问了布拉格同学,他给我们推荐一个叫Vítkov的地方,是个小山丘,有很好的视野俯瞰布拉格,还可以在那看到很多本地人遛狗,运动,享受阳光。山顶的博物馆是免费的,这意味着有免费的厕所(哈哈,这可是很难得),我在博物馆外的观景台点了上文所说的树莓汽水,享受了很放松的两小时。
很多中国人知道布拉格都是因为周杰伦的那首歌,但是布拉格其实没有广场,所谓的广场上也没有许愿池。老城区有很多教堂,同行的意大利人是个教堂迷,我跟着他参观了很多教堂,教堂内的壁画是很绝美的。听着风琴声绕梁鼓动,极致的色彩搭配和精美的墙柱雕花让人惊叹。每次参观教堂时我都很后悔对基督宗教知识知道太少。除去查理大桥以外布拉格最著名的应该是克莱门特学院,这是个历史十分悠久的图书馆群,在老城闲逛经过了不下四次,但各种原因下,我没进去参观,遗憾留下给未来。
布拉格的文化底蕴很浓,城区充满了艺术,哪怕是随机遇上的一家小店。走出游客密集的老城区,依然是随处可见的街头涂鸦,壁画,标语。我偶然遇上一位依墙速写的老太太,当时她旁边停着一辆花店的红色敞篷花车。人们在这用不同的艺术形式表达自己的情绪,印象比较深刻的是在卡夫卡博物馆门口的两个撒尿男人的雕像,我开始只觉得有趣,因为两个男人的屁股会左右移动,等听了导游的介绍才知道这个装置艺术下方的“水池”其实是捷克的地图形状,而对着它撒尿的两个男人则是两位政治家。
这趟行程比较有趣的是我们请了免费导览,选了legendary主题的,导游撑着把伞在渐大的雨中给我们讲解了一个半小时,随着雨变大,我的耳朵也渐渐失焦于他的故事,只听了个70%左右…


< Chapter4 > 零碎之笔
有位布拉格同学给我讲说现在朝鲜都在用捷克的电车,据说是因为捷克的电车质量好之类的原因。
查理桥旁的铁架上锁满了同心锁,导游说这种锁的来源是意大利的一本小说,但意大利人听了大吃一惊,我问他为啥,他说这个书的作者还活着呢
布拉格的地铁电梯出奇的快,尤其是我所在青旅的那站,你需要看好时时机,跳上电梯,再握好扶手
查理大桥里有很多鸡蛋,并且有专家确实在查理大桥中发现了鸡蛋成分
布拉格据说是从事色情行业人数最多的国家,我本来还想去脱衣舞俱乐部感受感受大胸肌,但是同行者们的性取向对其不感兴趣导致我只好留下遗憾哈哈
旅行中没话可讲的时候我们就互相学对方的语言,我拿着土耳其人的书乱读一通,和意大利人学会了 oh mio dio 还教会了他们说“救救我“和”我爱喝啤酒“…
记于 2024 春夏
Averywithevery
Live Once Only